It's time to educate the fashion industry.
Meet Artis Solomon; Explore the significance of the Qipao and tattoos in the Library; Revisiting The Ajrak; We want to hear from you... take our short survey!
This week at the Database…
Hello, community!
First of all, I want to thank those of you who have participated in our brief feedback survey. As we develop our plans for expansion in January 2022, we want to ensure that our next steps are guided by the folks who are keeping us in operation. As a reader-supported platform, I envision FRD as a self-sustaining space that will create new employment opportunities for fashion scholars (and fashion enthusiasts) who want to effect lasting change. I especially want the FRD space to bring our global community closer together - and in conversation. I am excited to share what’s cooking over here, but first our small team needs to make it through this final season of the year. If you have the means to help cover our operational costs, feel free to send us what you can here.
Speaking of things “cooking” over here, I’m excited to share with you my newest endeavor: a consultancy that educates the fashion industry, and works to prevent industry leaders from making harmful mistakes. You’ve seen this happen over and over again: Fill-in-the-blank fashion brand designs something racially insensitive, or fill-in-the-blank fashion magazine or ad campaign presents an incredibly senseless image or editorial. I founded Artis Solomon because I am already doing the work of educating the fashion industry, and because, sadly, there’s no limit to the ignorance and harm we see going on in this trillion dollar industry. I decided that it was time to formalize my practice and work towards building a more informed and accountable fashion system. Aside from preventative education, we also offer fashion history research and cultural insight for hire. I invite you to check out the new website and spread the word!
We’re just getting started over here.
– Kim Jenkins, Founder
From the Library
Qipao, Past & Present
The qipao (or cheongsam) is one of the most symbolic garments of Chinese fashion. Although some earlier examples survive, the qipao denotes the glamorous style of “Old Shanghai” in the 1910s–30s. During the Republican era, it became a tool of resistance that allowed women to negotiate with institutional repression through their sartorial practices. And, throughout its history, it has indexed shifts in the balance of power between China and the United States, at times perhaps even mediating relations between the two countries. This reading list offers five perspectives on the qipao historically and aims to show why this style is still relevant to our contemporary sensibilities.
– Laura Beltrán-Rubio, Researcher
Body Ornamentation: Tattoos
This week’s roundup provides written text and visual depictions of the way tattoos have been utilized by different cultures and the fashion industry. While some may argue that tattoos have transformed into a more contemporary presentation of impulsive decisions or vapid displays of art, in some cultures, the tradition has never left. Featuring traditional Inuit skin stitching, traditional and current use of Māori tattoos called moko, and penal tattoos in South Asia, these sources will provide insight on the scope of the power of body art.
– Alliya Lopez, Research Assistant
‘The Library’ and the ‘Reading List’ is where we collect and organize countless educational sources all in one place. Referenced by educators, students, fashion enthusiasts and curious minds, this multi-faceted repository provides an expanding selection of tools for learning about all matters connected to fashion, appearance, power and the impact of ‘race.’
Objects That Matter
The Ajrak
The earliest recorded instance of Ajrak cloth in the area was found at Mohenjo-Daro as part of a Harappan sculpture of a Priest King donning a shawl with trefoil motifs, resembling those found in contemporary Ajrak prints. It is believed that the cloth was used by the Indus River Valley Civilizations living in the area.
The word 'ajrak' is believed to be derived from the Arabic word 'azrak,' meaning 'blue,' indicative of the indigo dye used in Ajrak cloth. 'Ajrak' also translates to “keep for today” in Urdu and Hindi. The Ajrak is regarded as a symbol of pride, and it is among the few textiles that does not distinguish class or status; it is adorned by rich and poor alike.
– Safia Sheikh, Former FRD Research Assistant
'Objects That Matter' gathers numerous fashion objects outside of the Western lens and provides a brief history, showing why they matter, as many of these items have been widely appropriated or referenced.
Essays & Opinion
Moving Beyond Performance: When Brand Allyship Goes Wrong
In March of 2021, Guess Inc. came under fire with accusations of mimicking the design of a small – but highly influential – Black-owned brand. The brand in question was Telfar Global, started in 2005 by Telfar Clemens, and the item in question was a tote bag.
Though Telfar sells different items, their signature item is their shopping bag tote – offered in a variety of colors and sizes. The bags are made with faux leather and feature a double strap, magnetic snap closure, and an embossed Telfar logo. Guess Inc. released a tote with double straps and an embossed 'G' logo. Social media users called out these similarities and…
– Zari Alyssa Taylor, Guest Contributor
‘Essays & Opinion’ delivers thought-provoking research and analysis along with provocative takes on timely or underrepresented matters.
The Directory
NYC x STUDIO
Founded in 2020, we are a Haitian sister duo [Shelcy and Christy Joseph,] and independent agency combining our industry knowledge with our influencer experience and creative flair to execute impactful digital campaigns. We operate on the belief that brands and creators aren’t players on opposite teams, and facilitate meaningful connections that translate into authentic stories with global appeal.
The discourse on fashion and race threads through a vast network of like-minded endeavors. ‘The Directory’ catalogues other sources of information and inspiration.
We want your input!
We want to hear from YOU - our community - to see how we can better serve you and make The Database an even more effective learning platform. Visit the link below to take a short 4-minute survey and let us know how you feel about FRD!
Your answers will help guide our next steps as we look towards our future as an organization. So if you have a second to spare please be honest and share a little bit about who you are, how you use us, how we can improve, and what kind of content you think is missing from The Database.
The Calendar
Mandela: The Inspirational Style of a Revolutionary Statesman and World Leader
Nelson Mandela’s “Madiba” shirts were dramatically different from the conventional western suits worn by most politicians in South Africa and around the world. They were also the opposite of the hateful, drab prison garb that he was forced to wear for almost three decades. Made of brightly-patterned silk, Mandela’s Madiba shirts became emblematic of post-apartheid freedom, and were particularly meaningful to the Black majority of South Africans.
Several of these shirts and one of Mandela’s suits will be on view (until November 17) at The Museum at FIT before they will be auctioned off at Guernsey’s Auction House with other historic objects to raise funds for a Nelson Mandela Memorial Garden in South Africa.
A global network of events, conversations and opportunities will continue to evolve the discourse on fashion and race. ‘The Calendar’ remains on the pulse and keeps you looped in.
That’s it for now. Please stay safe and we’ll see you next week.
Yours in service and solidarity,
The Fashion and Race Database Team
Laura Beltrán-Rubio, Researcher
Alliya Lopez, Research Assistant
Gillani Peets, Research & Editorial Intern
Kendall Laws, Project Manager
Daniela Hernandez, Media Editor
Anthony Palliparambil, Jr., Content Editor
Kimberly Jenkins, Founder